Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity, San Telmo
The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity stands in the San Telmo district of Buenos Aires, facing Lezama Park. Its 17th-century Muscovite style makes it unmistakable, and it is one of the most surprising hidden gems in Buenos Aires.
Five blue domes with golden stars rise above the low houses of San Telmo. The design was drawn in St Petersburg, and this church was the first Orthodox temple in all of South America.
The history of the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity
By the 1880s Argentina was home to many Orthodox Greeks, South Slavs, Arabs and Romanians, yet the country did not have a single Orthodox church. In 1887 the faithful of Buenos Aires sent a petition to Tsar Alexander III, and in 1888 the first Orthodox church in South America was set up: two small rooms in a house on Calle Talcahuano, next to the Russian imperial mission. The first liturgy was celebrated in January 1889.
In 1891 the priest Konstantin Izrazcov arrived as parish priest and pushed for a church of its own. The plot was bought at the end of 1894, and in 1897 he travelled to Russia to gather donations: some people gave money, others icons, crosses, chalices, vestments and fabrics. Known donors include the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna and St John of Kronstadt.
The design was drawn up in St Petersburg by Mikhail Preobrazhensky, architect of the Holy Synod of Russia, and the building was adapted and built in Buenos Aires by the Norwegian-born architect Alejandro Christophersen, who was based in Argentina, together with the engineer Pedro Coni. The foundation stone was laid in December 1898 and the church was consecrated on 6 October 1901 in the presence of President Julio Argentino Roca and the diplomatic corps.
The result is a church inspired by 17th-century Muscovite architecture, set on a plot of about 717 square metres, 16 metres wide and 44 deep. Its five blue onion domes with golden stars, crowned by Orthodox crosses held by chains, stand out above the low houses of the neighbourhood. On the front, a bronze bas-relief reproduces the façade of the church, and on the sides there are two murals, one of them devoted to the Baptism of Rus. The church proper is on the first floor and is entered through a richly decorated door on the left of the façade; the altar faces east, and among the icons the one of the Holy Trinity, which gives the church its name, stands out.
In the early decades of the 20th century the parish was far more than a place of worship: it ran a consumer shop, a shelter for people in need, a free reading room, a choir and an amateur drama group. In 1911 a loan made it possible to build an apartment block on Calle Europa, today Carlos Calvo, whose income gave the community almost a century of independence. Konstantin Izrazcov died in 1953 and, by special permission of President Perón, was buried in the church itself. Today the building is a National Historic Monument.
Curious facts about the Russian Orthodox Cathedral in Buenos Aires
- It is regarded as the first and oldest Orthodox church in Buenos Aires and on the whole South American continent; before it, the community prayed in two rented rooms.
- The design was drawn thousands of kilometres away: it was prepared in St Petersburg by Mikhail Preobrazhensky, architect of the Holy Synod of Russia.
- The crosses crowning the domes are held by chains and point east, like the altar.
- The church is not at street level: the temple occupies the first floor and is reached through a decorated door on the left of the façade.
- At the inauguration ceremony on 6 October 1901, President Julio Argentino Roca was present.
- At the request of Father Izrazcov, President Perón issued a decree in 1948 to admit 10,000 former Soviet citizens who were fleeing forced repatriation.
Tours near Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity
Experiences in the area that you can book online with Viator:
Visiting the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity
- This is a working church: services are traditionally held in Church Slavonic and Spanish. Check the current times and respect the services before going in.
- Even without going inside, the five blue domes are easy to see from the pavement and from Lezama Park, right opposite.
- The National Historical Museum is also across the park, so both sites combine easily in a single walk.
- The sources do not explain how visits to the interior are organised, so it is wise to ask the parish before you go.
- San Telmo has other historic buildings a few blocks away, such as the Customs Palace and the Santo Domingo convent.
Opening hours, access and conditions can change. Check before you go.
Map: where Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity is
Photos of Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity
Questions
What is the Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Most Holy Trinity in Buenos Aires?
It is a church of the Russian Orthodox Church in San Telmo, built between 1898 and 1901 and consecrated in October 1901. It is a National Historic Monument, recognisable by its five blue domes.
Where is the Russian church in San Telmo?
At Calle Brasil 315, facing Lezama Park, between Calle Defensa and Calle Balcarce. It is close to the National Historical Museum.
Who designed the cathedral?
The design was prepared in St Petersburg by Mikhail Preobrazhensky, architect of the Holy Synod of Russia. In Buenos Aires the works were carried out by the Norwegian-born architect Alejandro Christophersen with the engineer Pedro Coni.
What style is the church?
It is in 17th-century Muscovite style, with five blue onion domes with golden stars, crowned by Orthodox crosses with chains.
Can you go inside?
It is a working church and the temple is on the first floor. The sources do not specify visiting conditions, so check the times and rules before you go.
Why is there a Russian church in Buenos Aires?
It was built for the city's Orthodox community, made up of Russians, Greeks, South Slavs, Arabs and Romanians. The funds came from Russia through donations.
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